Telouet Kasbah and the Ounila Valley: The Old Caravan Road to Aït Ben Haddou

Most travellers drive from Marrakech to Aït Ben Haddou on the main road over the Tizi n’Tichka pass. It is a spectacular route — but just after the pass, a small road turns off to the left and leads into a completely different world: the village of Telouet, its extraordinary kasbah, and the deep red Ounila valley, the ancient caravan route that once linked the Sahara to Marrakech. With a private driver, it is easy to include in a day trip or a desert tour.

A little history

For centuries, caravans carrying salt, dates, gold and other goods crossed the High Atlas through this valley. Whoever controlled the passage controlled the trade. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, that power belonged to the Glaoui family, whose most famous member, Thami El Glaoui, became Pasha of Marrakech and one of the most powerful men in Morocco. Telouet was their mountain stronghold.

When the Glaoui era ended with independence in 1956, the kasbah was abandoned. Much of it has crumbled back into the earth, but a few rooms survived intact — and they are breathtaking.

Telouet Kasbah: what you will see

From the outside, the kasbah looks like a ruin of red earth and collapsing towers. Inside, a short visit leads through dark corridors into reception rooms decorated with the finest craftsmanship of the time: zellige tile mosaics, carved and painted cedar ceilings, delicate stucco and wrought-iron windows overlooking the mountains. The contrast between the ruins and these jewel-like rooms is unforgettable.

Visits are short — 30 to 45 minutes — and an entrance fee applies. A local guide can tell the story of the Glaoui; ask your driver to arrange one if you wish.

The Ounila valley

After Telouet, the road follows the Ounila river south through a landscape of red and ochre cliffs, green terraced fields and earth-built villages. The road, now largely paved, passes through Anemiter, a traditional village of fortified houses, then winds along the valley floor with constant views of kasbahs perched on rocky outcrops. Near the end, it reaches Tamdaght, with its own Glaoui kasbah, before arriving at Aït Ben Haddou, the famous fortified village (ksar) classified by UNESCO and used as a set for many films.

Along the way, look out for the traditional salt mines near Telouet, a reminder of the trade that made the valley rich.

Route and timing from Marrakech

• Marrakech to Tizi n’Tichka: about 2 h 30 on the main road over the High Atlas.
• Tichka turn-off to Telouet: around 20 km of mountain road, about 30 minutes.
• Telouet to Aït Ben Haddou through the Ounila valley: roughly 40 km, about 1 h 30 with stops.
• Aït Ben Haddou to Ouarzazate: about 30 minutes.

In total, Marrakech to Aït Ben Haddou via Telouet takes about four to five hours of driving — a long but rewarding day. Many travellers prefer to sleep in Aït Ben Haddou or Ouarzazate and return the next day, or to include the route as the first day of a three-day desert tour to Merzouga.

Why a private driver makes sense here

Organised bus tours take the main road; they rarely include Telouet and almost never the Ounila valley. With a private driver, you choose your stops: photographs of kasbahs, tea in a village, lunch with a view, more time in Telouet. Mountain roads require experience — narrow sections, tight bends, occasional livestock — and our drivers know them well. We use comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles such as our Fiat Scudo or VIP Ford Tourneo Custom for small groups and our VIP minibus for larger ones.

Best time to go

• Spring (March–May): green fields, almond and fruit trees, pleasant temperatures — the most beautiful season.
• Autumn (September–November): golden light and mild weather.
• Summer: hot in the valley, but cooler at Telouet’s altitude; start early.
• Winter: crisp and clear, but the Tichka pass can occasionally close after heavy snow — we always check conditions the day before.

Read our season-by-season guide for more detail.

Practical tips

• Bring a jacket: Telouet sits at around 1,800 m and is much cooler than Marrakech.
• Carry cash for entrance fees, tips and drinks — there are few ATMs on this route.
• Wear comfortable shoes for the uneven floors of the kasbahs.
• Motion sickness? Ask for the front seat and see our comfort tips for long drives.
• Combine with our Aït Ben Haddou and Ouarzazate day trip: just ask for the Telouet variant when booking.

In short

The Telouet and Ounila route is the High Atlas as it used to be: caravan villages, crumbling kasbahs, red cliffs and green fields, far from the coaches on the main road. It turns the journey to Aït Ben Haddou into the highlight of the day. Tell us your dates and we will plan the perfect timing — read more about the destination in our Aït Ben Haddou and Tichka guide.